Tinker, tailor, soldier, sailor; in praise of Army Surplus Stores

Army Surplus stores are thin on the ground now. Once upon a time, they were part and parcel of a ‘make do and mend’ National mentality, packed to the rafters with household tools, workwear and camping equipment, as well as military clothing. There used to be a giant one in Ealing; I remember going with a friend to buy twin boiler suits for a school dance performance of ‘Grease Lightening’. They cost next to nothing. It was a fantastic shop: jam-packed, musty smelling, pasted with pictures from Guns & Ammo Monthly. Several years ago, it went bust.

Surviving Army Surplus stores often cater to trends more than practical needs, perhaps homing in on the corner of the market that generates most profit. Khakis, camo jackets, Doc Martins, embroidered patches and red Libertines-esque military jackets are styles that have helped Army Surplus stores stay afloat. Fancy dress is another strong footing. If you’ve got a nautical themed night to attend, or you’re after a GI Joe ensemble, Army Surplus stores can invariably kit you out for less cash than a costume shop.   

The decline of the Army Surplus store is a sad one. Over the years, they’ve lost out to hardware and camping specialists. When you can, offer them your custom; they’re so much better than you think they are. Here are a few you might like to visit:

VICTORIA CAMPING & SURPLUS

Address: 47 The Cut, Southwark, London SE1 8LF

Tel: 020 7928 4110

Waterproofs, roll mats, sleeping bags, etc. Victoria Camping & Surplus is handily near to Waterloo station and is a good one-stop-shop for all happy campers. Phone for opening hours.

EURO ARMY AND NAVY STORE
Address: 178 Kilburn High Road, London NW6 4JD

Tel: 020 7372 2323

Everything you could possibly need for costume shindigs and outdoor activities alike. Fishing equipment, cadet uniforms, airguns and archery, footwear, Reginald hats and more. They stock kiddies’ sizes too. Check for opening hours.

BOUND FOR GLORY

Address: Stall 451, Camden Stables Market, NW1

Strictly military clothing. No tent pegs and WD40 here. Look out for the owner – he’s usually storming around dress in fancy dress himself.

ARMY CLASSICS

Address: 49 Pembridge Road, Notting Hill, London W11 3HG

Tel: 020 7221 7117

Best for army style clothing, fancy dress and military trends. Call for opening hours.

WALWORTH SURPLUS STORE
Address: 211 Walworth Road, London SE17 1RL

The owner of this place is, it’s fair to say, not a people person. Don’t bother calling in advance to enquire about stock: all you’ll get is a gruff ‘come on down!’ and then the dial tone. Equally, there are no set opening times – this guy is semi retired and opens the shop whenever he damn well pleases. On the plus side, the store is a complete gem, overflowing and riddled with dust. You feel as though you’re stepping back in time. Hardware, outdoor clothing and military trends are all covered to a greater or lesser extent but, as I said before, it’s impossible to know what’s in stock unless you actually go there.

"In for a penny, in for a paahnd." East London's jumble: value for money?

  

Petticoat Lane

A joke about Petticoat Lane did the rounds in the 50’s, back when it was rife with pickpockets. People quipped that if you entered the market wearing a fancy watch, some glinty eyed stallholder would've pilfered it and sold it back to you by the time you reached the opposite end. The joke was befitting of a market with a chequered past. Only in recent decades has Petticoat Lane's bad rep with the boys in blue petered out. Cramped between dismal tower blocks and walls of graffiti, it's a far cry from Portobello Road; you know you’re in the East End here. But that’s all part of its charm.




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 Come here for leather goods (Aldgate East side), high street clothes at knock-down prices, furs, toys, watches, jewellery and children’s clothes. For fabric, Petticoat lane is a godsend. There are wall-to-wall textile shops here, selling everything from plain cottons to bold African prints. When it comes to electrical goods, be discerning; even Delboy would be wary of this stuff.

You’ll hear a fair bit of cockney being bandied around, and there’s a nice amount of showmanship among the stallholders. Look out for stands selling authentic Caribbean, Asian and Jewish dishes. The market has charted its local demographic, adopted first by the East End Jewish community and then strengthened by the wave of Asian immigration in the 1970’s.

Snooty buyers: don’t be repelled by the Stacey Slater items on some stalls. PVC puffa jackets might not be your thing, but the key is perseverance. And remember, ALWAYS haggle.

Address: In the main, Middlesex Street, London E1. On Sundays, the market expands to the surrounding streets.

Opening times: Sun 9am-2.30pm

Mon-Fri 10am-2pm



Spitalfields Market

Spitalfields is, in many ways, the antithesis of Petticoat Lane, though they share the same breadth of history. Bordered by big name shops and eateries, the revamped Spitalfields market is always litter free and well presented; there’s a distinct lack of zebra print leggings and graffiti here. That’s not to say Spitalfields is void of personality; it’s a lovely place to spend a Sunday afternoon. It’s just a more genteel, leisurely kind of shopping experience – a place to take your granny, or your organic-only friends.

The East end of the market is less polished, retaining more of its original charm – if it’s clothes you’re after, come to this side. In the main, the West end stalls are better for gifts, food and accessories. Scented candles, pretty soap, homemade cakes, hair accessories and trinket necklaces are in good supply. There’s even an oyster bar. If you want something more substantial, nip into Leon for a bite to eat. A chain restaurant, I know, but it’s first class for seasonal, locally sourced food.

In conclusion: for oysters, go to Spitalfields. For jellied eels, go to Petticoat Lane.

BEAR IN MIND THAT SPITALFIELDS' PRODUCE ALTERS FROM DAY TO DAY, SEE OPENING TIMES FOR DETAILS.

Address: Old Spital Fields Market, Commercial St, London E1 6BG
Opening times:
Mon-Wed: All shops, no stalls open
Thurs: Antiques and vintage
Fri:Fashion and Art
Sat:All shops, no stall open
Sun: BUSIEST DAY, all shops and stalls open

The East End Thrift Store

If you cross the road outside Whitechapel tube, turn left and walk ten minutes along the high street, you’ll eventually come to Assembly Passage. It’s an unpromising looking alleyway, but down here you’ll find The East End Thrift Store. If any of you have been mourning The Brick Lane Thrift Store on Sclater St since it got boarded up, weep no more, pop your circa 1950 silk handkerchief back in your pocket: this is its successor.

While you’re browsing (this is a good sized store with a lot packed into it, it takes a while to cover all the bases: shift dresses, denim shirts and baseball jackets beckon) take a moment to ask a member of staff about their fill-a-bag vintage jumble sales. These beauties are held on the upper floor over sporadic weekends, for details of the next one check their FACEBOOK UPDATES, as upcoming dates aren’t listed on the website. Get there EARLY – otherwise you get the dregs – choose your £10 or £20 bag, and cram it as full as you dare. Stamina is crucial, the clothes are piled higgledy piggledy across the floor. No kicking or rugby tackling please. Last weekend, I came across a great charcoal mac, a double button red wool coat, two summer dresses and a tan cord blazer.

Address: Unit 1A Assembly Passage, London E1 4UT

Opening times: Sun-Wed 11am-6pm

Thurs-Sat 11am-7pm

VISIT THE EAST END THRIFT STORE

Sifting thrift; picking through London's second hand clothes shops

I can’t claim to know all the vintage and second hand clothes outlets in London, but I’ve got a few favourites I’d love to share. Here they are for your perusal, complete with descriptions of what each has to offer the seasoned bargain hunter:



 



Image courtesy of Pandora's website



 1. PANDORA DRESS AGENCY (WOMENSWEAR)

Tucked away in a residential backstreet behind Harrods, you’d never stumble on Pandora by accident. If you’re label-hungry, it’s a revelation: a haven where the great and the good of Knightsbridge deposit their once-worn designer wear. This is no jumble sale. We’re talking clothes less than two years old: Chanel bags, Chloé dresses and velvet trimmed Valentino suit jackets, organised according to colour and size. These swanky items have seen one cocktail party, at a push two, and then been abandoned. It’s the clothes equivalent of a pedigree dog pound. It would be cruel not to take something home with you.

For some of us, myself included, the price tags will cause heart palpitations. No £10 bargain bins here. But rest assured, these clothes have been reduced to a snip of their original cost.

BEST FOR: celebrity spotting, making wish lists, haute couture, designer cocktail dresses, evening gowns and wide-brimmed hats.

DOWN SIDE: makes you feel like a hobo.

ADDRESS: Pandora Dress Agency, 16-22 Cheval Place, London, SW7 1ES
VISIT PANDORA

2. RETRO WOMAN/RETRO MAN

If you like Pandora, and money's no issue, you’ll probably like these two shops. Standing only a few doors apart on the same stretch of road, Retro Woman/Man are prominent fixtures in Notting Hill’s vintage scene. The stock is designer orientated, varied, but dates further back than Pandora’s, with quirkier statement pieces. Both offer clothes, shoes and accessories.

RETRO WOMAN

BEST FOR: For my money, this place is best for footwear – specifically, towering heels. Miu Miu, Jimmy Choo, YSL; stunning shoes line the entire right hand wall. Retro Woman also stocks a nice range of smart trousers, and is always harbouring a few stunning dresses under its wing; I've spotted classics by Fendi, Stella McCartney and Donna Karen on previous nose-arounds.

DOWN SIDE: Like Pandora, price tags can still be high. Don’t come here hoping for an entire new wardrobe, come with a specific item in mind, perhaps for a special event.

RETRO MAN

BEST FOR: Retro Man doesn’t only cater to the Portobello dandy. Paul Smith items, checked shirts and tweed blazers are counteracted by high tops, vintage parkas and all things Nike.

DOWN SIDE: As with Retro Woman, prices are too high for a big, bargainous shop.

ADDRESS: 32 Pembridge Road
Notting Hill Gate,

London, W11 3HN

NO WEBSITE AVAILABLE

 

 

Original background image courtesy of John French Photography

3. DOLLY DIAMOND (Ladies and Gents)

Situated just along the road from Retro Man/Woman, towards Portobello Road, this is great for those of you who love a bit of Granny chic, or the romantic, lace-swaddled look. Vintage wedding dresses, tiaras and gleaming pearls decorate the window display.

BEST FOR: Evening and dinner wear, leather gloves, fur shrugs, brooches, hats, bridal hair pieces and veils.

DOWN SIDE: Don’t bother if you go for casual, comfortable styles.

ADDRESS: 51 Pembridge Road

Notting Hill Gate,

London W11 3HG

VISIT DOLLY DIAMOND

 

Image couresty of urbanjunkies.com

4. MARSHMALLOW MOUNTAIN (Ladies and Gents)

Just off Carnaby Street in the lovely Kingly Court, Marshmallow Mountain always has a wicker hamper outside its doorway containing reduced goodies. Inside, things get much pricier, although their costume jewellery, hairclips and sunglasses are generally good value for money. The shop is small, so stock is limited, but varied nonetheless; last time I visited they had little black dresses, gold sequin tops and fluoro prints.   

BEST FOR: cowboy boots, faux gold jewellery, floral dresses with hefty shoulder pads, leather skirts, body con dresses (think Madonna, the early years).

 

DOWN SIDE: bags and belts from here will make your wallet wince. You can get something just as good, but for less cash, at the West End branch of Beyond Retro, which is five minutes round the corner in Great Marlborough Street.

ADDRESS: Ground Floor,
Kingly Court,
49 Carnarby Street,
London W1

VISIT MARSHMALLOW MOUNTAIN

 

 

5. ROKIT (Ladies and Gents)

Rokit’s a well established chain, with stores in Covent Garden, Camden and Brick Lane. Brick Lane’s branch is handily divided into two parallel shops, with the dearer stuff in the Rokit Vintage outlet, so you can choose where you snoop according to budget. In my experience, the Covent Garden branch is the best value for money. It’s the biggest of the three, too.

BEST FOR: High waisted denim shorts, velvet suit jackets, novelty t-shirts. (Covent Garden branch)

Heavily sequinned or beaded dresses, brooches and necklaces, silk bomber jackets, smart shirts.(Brick Lane Vintage branch)
ADDRESS: 42 Shelton St, Covent Garden, WC2H 9HZ

VISIT ROCKIT

 

 

6. THE VINTAGE STORE

Crouched on the corner of Cheshire St, just down from the Brick Lane branch of Rokit, is The Vintage Store. More trend focused than many vintage shops, it’s currently offering exquisite brogues and boat shoes, chunky work boots, oversized wool/mohair cardis and black leather shorts. They even have a row of old fold-out theatre seats in red velvet, where you can perch to try on shoes. The staff are friendly, prices reasonable, and something outrageously brilliant is always blasting from the speakers.

BEST FOR: flats, ankle boots, knitwear, leather shorts.

 DOWN SIDE: Teeny weeny changing room; not great on weekends when the crowds descend.

ADDRESS: 182 Brick Lane, E1 6SA

VISIT THE VINTAGE STORE

 

 

                                                                                                                                                 

7. BRICK LANE SUNDAY UP/BACK YARD MARKETS

Come here for real bargains. The Sunday Up and Back Yard Markets will bring out the East End hustler in you – try to haggle whenever possible. Some stallholders are friendlier than others, but it’s worth a shot. You can get anything and everything here; bric-a-brac, jewellery, food, footwear and clothes galore. If you prefer markets to the self-satisfied ambience of some high end vintage shops, come here; you’ll enjoy browsing.

BEST FOR: Unexpected finds, testing your haggling capabilities.

 DOWN SIDE: If you prefer trying your clothes on before buying them, markets aren’t always a safe bet. Unless you’re an exhibitionist.

ADDRESS: Ely’s Yard, The Old Truman Brewery, E1 6QL

VISIT SUNDAY UP MARKET 

 

 

8. BEYOND RETRO (Ladies and Gents)

Of all the vintage shops in this list, Beyond Retro is the one you’re most likely to know. Their yellow, anchor-patterned bags are rife in Brick Lane, Oxford Street and Carnaby Street, dangling from the arms of men wearing war-torn straw boaters and girls with cut-glass fringes. If you’re in Central London and fancy shopping for second hand basics, pop into their Great Marlborough St Branch. For something a bit more eccentric, head to their giant warehouse outlet in Cheshire Street. This is a real treat for the eyes, top notch for fancy dress costumes, or just a snoop.  



BEST FOR: (Great Marlborough Street) Levi’s shorts, lumberjack shirts, patent leather bags, leather bombers, mohair and wool jumpers, sports jackets, tea dresses, belts, fur jackets.

(Cheshire Street Warehouse) Fancy dress – tutus, sequin spangled leotards, animal print, top hats, spandex leggings, cheer leader skirts, plus more standard items, as above.

DOWN SIDE: Beyond Retro’s mannequins are always kitted out in themed, eye-popping ensembles, but generally you’re not allowed to try these outfits on. They stay on the manikins until the display changes. This can be frustrating; ask for an estimation of when the item will become available and whether you can reserve it.

ADDRESS: EAST END WARHOUSE

110-112 Cheshire Street, London E2 6EJ

WEST END STORE

58-59 Great Marlborough Street, W1F 7JY

VISIT BEYOND RETRO 

 

 

 

9. BETTY AND GERTY (for ladies, in the main, and men with very small feet)

Hidden away from the main portion of Camden Market in The West Yard, Betty & Gerty is my favourite place to snoop for shoes, bags and cheap jewellery. Whether you’re after brogues, ankle boots, pumps or heels, Betty & Gerty will have something to offer you, and the staff are always happy to help. Take time to check out their earrings and necklaces: kitsch plastic animals, feathers and the occasional all-out chav chain await you. Ask about their second stall, which you can get to via a nearby flight of stairs. This is where the discount stuff is, so don’t miss it. Shoes for a fiver? Go on then.

BEST FOR: Quilted bags, footwear, quirky earrings and faux gold necklaces.

DOWN SIDE: Not so great if you’ve got Neanderthal feet. The majority of shoes are below size 7.

ADDRESS: 69 The West Yard, Camden, London NW1 8AF

VISIT BETTY AND GERTY 

 

 

 

10. VINTAGE FURS AND SKIN BAGS (Womenswear)

Hilary Proctor specialises in fur, real and faux. If you want to buy a good quality fur coat this winter, have a gander at her shop in Camden’s Stables. Genuine or fake, the coats are soft and luxuriant, often with beautiful linings. There are hats and shrugs, too. Not everyone’s cup of tea, certainly, but don’t write it off; I found it fascinating just looking around. It’s like a cloakroom at a 1950’s Hollywood party. Whether you’re a faux-or-nothing pioneer, or a genuine-mink-only girl, Hilary has something for everyone.   

BEST FOR: Fur coats, croc and snakeskin bags, faux and genuine.

DOWN SIDE: To state the obvious, this is not for vegans, anti-fur campaigners, or the squeamish. The dead fox faces gave me the heeby jeebies. 

ADDRESS: D29 & D32 Horse Tunnel, Camden Stables Market, NW1 8AH

On Saturdays, Hilary's Furs can also be found at Shop 6 Admiral Vernon, 141 Portobello Road, W11 2DY
NO WEBSITE AVAILABLE

 

 

 

 

11. RETRO CITY (Ladies and Gents)

Again, this is a specialist outlet. Come here for your leather and suede jackets, many of which are crammed onto £10 racks. They have just about every style, shade and size under the sun. Fringed? Studded? They’ve probably got it.

BEST FOR: Suede jackets, Matrix coats, biker chic.

DOWN SIDE: If you’re not into your leather and suede, there’s little else to sustain your interest here.

ADDRESS: D9 Horse Tunnel, Camden Stables Market, NW1 8AH

NO WEBSITE AVAILABLE

 

 

  

12. WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND

If you like Beyond Retro and Rokit, you’ll like What Goes Around Comes Around. Located in a line of large vintage shops, you can always find long rails of logo patterned 80’s t-shirts and a rainbow display of Converses.

BEST FOR: Colourful Converses, trainers still in their boxes, denim cut offs, 80’s and 90’s tees.

ADDRESS: Camden Stables Market, Arch 47, NW1

NO WEBSITE AVAILABLE

*COMING SOON!*

A review of the East End Thrift Store’s Sunday jumble sale

AND

new features on charity shops/army surplus stores.

I like clutter: introducing Magpies + Mad Hatters




Image courtesy of Urban Graphic Ltd

 

I tend to hoard. When I try bundling things into bags for Oxfam, guilt tugs at my chest. I survey the amputee Barbies and one-eyed cuddly toys of my childhood, veterans of the teddy bears’ picnic regime, and I imagine their sense of rejection. Judas, that’s what they’re thinking.

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It’s not just toys, either: bits of broken jewellery, empty perfume bottles that smell of my GCSE years, scraps of wrapping paper, dog-eared postcards, ticket stubs. These things lurk awkwardly; unsuitable for charity shops, too precious for the wastepaper bin.

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Accumulating new clutter is also an issue. Second hand book shops, markets, jumble sales, haberdasheries and antique dealers fascinate me. Places with kitsch or baroque decor float my boat - anywhere reminiscent of alladin's cave; old theatres dripping with hideous gold angels and stale velvet, tea rooms full of hand painted china.

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MAGPIES + MAD HATTERS aims to rummage through vintage stalls, seek out retro tea shops, track down beautiful old cinemas and harass antique dealers on your behalf, charting businesses and locations that hoarders and collectors might be partial to.